Cooking a Good Stock

Whether you are cooking stock to make soup or make gravy, good stock is vital to a quality end product.  It’s worth every bit of extra time it takes for the wonderful end result.  Unfortunately I often don’t have time for that if I haven’t thought a few days ahead.  Also, it’s cheaper to make than to buy.

Price isn’t the only reason for making your own stock.  You control what goes into it, so if you have someone on a sodium restricted diet you can make it without sodium.  You are also more likely know the quality and origin of the ingredients you use.  If fat is an issue, do not remove the fat before cooking.  It provides wonderful flavors.  When done, let it cool and then skim the hardened fat off.

There are four basic kinds of stock: vegetarian (I’ve never made it), chicken/turkey, beef/pork, and fish.  Sometimes one substitutes well for another and sometimes it doesn’t.  More than not, you can get away with it.

The cheapest chicken or turkey stock comes from the cheapest chickens and turkeys.  As my boys would say, “well duh!”  Before we raised our own chickens, I would do my best to watch for sales and then make a really big pot of stock.  Also, after family Thanksgiving and Christmas dinners is a good time to offer to take the carcass off someone’s hands and put it to good use.

There are other good times for cooking stock.  When I have leftover necks and wings from a roasted bird I toss them in the freezer.  When I get a few more, I toss them in with the previous ones.  If there’s celery about to go bad, you guessed it – in the freezer. 

After deboning some thighs and breasts for stir-fry, the bones and whatever is left on them goes in the freezer with the rest of the “stock makings.”  When enough has accumulated and I have a little time, it all comes out of the freezer and the stock cooking begins.  The only drawback is that all that stock has to be stored.

When there’s only a little bit of stock left after making soup, I usually put it in a freezer container and put it in the freezer.  Whether I do this with a little bit or a whole stock-pot full, the end result is usually the same.  It all goes into the freezer and then somehow it gets lost.  I think it might be the same phenomenon as the washer eating socks, but I haven’t proven it yet.

My solution was to start canning the stock.  This post isn’t to teach you or convince you to can your stock.  This really is just about how to make it.  I’m just forewarning you that if you make a lot, have plans for storing it.  If you do decide to freeze it, separate it into multiple containers.  Always label each container with the date and contents.  You won’t remember – you only think you will.

A thick-bottomed stock pot is ideal.  It’s less likely to scorch.  Of course it’s also less likely to scorch if you’re paying attention and not rushing.  I’m sure you’d all believe that I’ve never done that, right?  NOT!

If the meat or vegetables you are using have not previously been cooked, like the leftover turkey I mentioned earlier, you have the option to roast it in the oven at 450º F. for about 30 minutes (if you’re putting them in thawed out and almost room temperature).  The caramelization that occurs really adds flavor and makes for a darker stock.  This step is optional and will depend on the time you have and the end result you want.
You will notice that the recipe calls for apple cider vinegar.  It is not enough to taste it, but it is enough to help leach the calcium out of the bone, improving the nutritional value of the broth.

Keep in mind that there’s lots of room for flexibility here.  I will give ingredients for a chicken stock, but if you have beef, it works the same way.  If you have 6 pounds of chicken, don’t worry.  It will still work.  

Chicken Stock

5 pounds of chicken/chicken bones

2 large onions, peeled and quartered

3 large carrots, washed, tops removed and cut into 2-3 pieces

4 stalks of celery, cut into 2-3 pieces OR

Cut the top 3-4 inches off the top of a fresh bunch of celery

8 garlic cloves, peeled

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

1 medium bay leaf
1 tablespoon dried sage (or more to taste)
2 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme (or more to taste)
2-3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Put all ingredients into a sufficiently large stock pot and just barely cover with water.  Bring to a boil, but immediately turn down the heat to keep it at a simmer.  Boiling causes more foam, wastes energy and doesn’t speed up the process.

I like to let mine simmer for at least 2 hours. You can simmer the stock with the lid off to cook it down and intensify the flavor.  Some like to skim off the foam periodically.  I don’t find it necessary.  When done cooking, pour it through a strainer and let cool.  Once it’s cooled it becomes very easy to skim off any fats.  I prefer to keep mine for a fuller-flavored broth.  You’re now ready to use, can or freeze it.

If you use a little of the broth to cook some potatoes and add in the leftover vegetables, you can make a wonderful potato soup and nothing gets wasted.  There are plenty of ways to use up whatever meat was still stuck to the bones as well.

If you decide that you want to can your stock, it will be necessary to pressure can it.  For reliable, up-to-date canning instruction visit http://nchfp.uga.edu/how/can_05/stock_broth.html.  Note that their instructions are for cooking broth and vary considerably from mine.  This does not affect the time or pressure for canning.