ROUX
What is a roux?  It’s an easy thickening agent for soups and sauces that will make you look like a fancy-shmancy cook when you learn how to do it.  How do you pronounce it?  It’s pronounced roo and while it is in fact easy, if you don’t follow a few key instructions, you will rue that you didn’t.  :)

Have you ever noticed that even a so-so roast becomes wonderful if there’s really good gravy to pour over it?  Ever wonder how that fabulous chowder became so thick and creamy?  Why Aunt Emma’s turkey gravy is always a nice golden brown like the turkey, rather than pale?  Save that can of cream of mushroom soup for an emergency fix and forget those dark brown additives to make the gravy look richer.  Definitely pitch that nasty package that comes with the turkey.  Learn to make roux!

Just about any kind of oil or fat can be used to make roux.  What sets roux apart from other thickeners is that it uses flour that is cooked first.  This not only removes the raw taste of the flour, but imparts a wonderful flavor that you can control from almost non-existent to rich and roasted. 

First I’ll describe this very simple process and then we’ll look at the various stages you can cook a roux to and also some tips for success.

BASIC ROUX

Peanut Butter Stage

1 cup butter (or oil or bacon fat)

1 3/4 cup flour

In a heavy-bottomed pan, warm the fat over medium heat.  A tiny bit of flour dropped in it should cause a slight bubbling action when it’s ready.  At that point add the flour and stir to incorporate it.  It will feel almost like cake icing at first.  Keep stirring and as it begins to bubble cut the heat back.  You want a very gentle bubble.  Don’t walk away and don’t stop stirring.

Depending on what you will be making this process may take your only 5 minutes for a white roux or as much as 45 minutes for a very, very dark roux.  When it has reached the right stage for you, pour it into a heatproof container and let cool.  You will find that the flour and oil separate – just stir them back together.

The quantity in this recipe is more than most of us would use at once.  You will find that it is easier to cook a large quantity of roux at once, because it does not scorch as easily.  That being the case, if I am making a dark roux I would just as soon make a batch, use what I need and then divide the rest out and store for future use.  How soon it will get used will influence if it gets stored in the refrigerator or freezer – make sure to label it clearly.

If I’m making a white roux, there’s not much concern about preventing scorching in those 5 minutes and I’ll just make however much I need, when I need it.

There are four stages of roux, each of which work well with different types of recipes.  A white roux is only cooked for a short time – about 5 minutes.  This should be just enough to cut the raw taste of the flour without adding any color to the roux.  It’s great for potato soup, clam chowder and such.

The second stage of roux is cooked considerably longer – about 20 minutes.  It will be a light golden color similar to straw and smell like toast when it’s ready.  This makes a great base for fresh tomato soup. Some also like to use this for stock-based sauces and soups.  This is a nice one for chicken ‘n dumplings if you like it thickened.

Stage three is what I think of as the peanut butter stage – at least that’s what it looks like to me.  It smells a little like roasted nuts, but not quite as mellow.  It will have to cook even longer (about 35 minutes) to be done.  This is the one I like to use for turkey gravy.

The last stage, stage four is a very dark roux.  It will have to cook the longest – bet you couldn’t guess that!  Plan on spending approximately 45 minutes.    When it looks like melted chocolate that you could dip a strawberry in, it’s ready.  Used more for its flavoring power than thickening power, this roux makes fabulous gumbo and hearty stews.

Speaking of thickening power…a light roux has considerably more thickening power than a dark roux.  Keep that in mind when you decide how much you will need.  Rule of thumb is 1/2 cup roux for 4 cups of stock.  Some say 1 tablespoon per cup of liquid.  Ultimately it will depend on how dark your roux is and how thick you want the end product to be. 

There's nothing like
good gravy!

To avoid lumps, the rule is to add cold ingredients to hot ingredients.  Have the hot roux in a pot and then add cold liquid a little at a time, whisking until smooth between each addition.  Once the roux forms a thin paste, then it’s safe to whisk in the remaining liquid all at once.  Bring the mixture to a simmer. 

Alternately, use cold (or room temperature) roux and whisk it into a simmering liquid until it dissolves.  It will take 10-20 minutes for it to reach its full flavor and thickening potential.  If you try to cut this time too short, you will not have a smooth silky soup or gravy.  We’re not talking lumps here…it will be grainy.  The flour needs time to soften and absorb the liquid. 

Stay focused while you stir.  It’s one of the few times you really have to stay with it.  If you have to walk away for something, turn the burner off.  If you have an electric stove, turn the burner off and move the pot off the burner.  Those 1-minute distractions sometimes turn into 10 or 20 before you know it.  Yesterday, the birth of a calf interrupted me.  It wasn't just one minute.

Yes, he's cute but not worth burning
the roux or burning the house down.
Turn off the burner and move the pan
off the burner.